Snake Temple Hock Hin Keong, Ban Kah Lan Chua Beow, Ser Miau Temple of the Azure Clouds, Sungai Keluang, Bayan Lepas, Penang
Snake Temple Location Map
The Snake Temple (10 June, 2006)
Design on the altar (10 June, 2006)
Images in the Snake Temple (10 June, 2006)
The Snake Temple
The Snake Temple in Sungai Keluang, Bayan Lepas, officially called Hock Hin Keong, but known variously as Ban Kah Lan Chua Beow or Ser Miau, is one of the most peculiar temples and probably the only one of its kind in the world. It was built in 1850 (some websites incorrectly put the date as 1805, which is highly improbable) to venerate a deified Buddhist monk named of Chor Soo Kong, the Hokkien name for Cheng Swee Chor Soo. In Cantonese, Chor Soo Kong is called Chou See Yeah. "Chor Soo" is in fact an honorific title for an eminent historic figure who is to be continuously revered by subsequent generations. Chor Soo Kong and Chou See Yeah means the same thing: "The Much Honoured Chor Soo".
There are in fact two temples to Chor Soo Kong in Bayan Lepas - the other Chor Soo Kong Temple, without any snakes, is located in Batu Maung. However, the Snake Temple in Sungai Keluang is by far the most famous due mainly to its slittery residents.
The actual name of the Snake Temple is Ban Kah Lan, in Hokkien, or Temple of the Azure Clouds. Every year, pilgrims come from far and near on Chor Soo Kong's birthday, which falls on the 6th day of the first lunar month, hence it's a traditional temple to visit during Chinese New Year.
Chor Soo Kong was born in Fujian province during the Song Dynasty (960-1276 AD), during the reign of Emperor Ren-Zong (1023-1063 AD). He is from the "Tan" clan and his personal name was "Eng". He entered monkhood from an early age. Upon his ordination, he received the Buddhist name Pu-Zu. He started his life as a monk by staying at a monastery called Da Yun Yuan. Later on, he decided to lead an ascetic life in Gao-Tai Mountain, to strive for spiritual cultivation. Through the guidance of Zen Master Ming-Song, Chor Soo Kong attained spiritual enlightenment.
In addition to spiritual enlightenment, Chor Soo Kong acquired extensive medical knowledge, enabling him to provide medical services to the needy in the surrounding communities.
On the sixth year of the reign of Emperor Shen-Zhong of the Song Dynasty (corresponding to around the year 1073 AD), the area of Qing-Xi in Fujian suffered a terrible drought. When Chor Soo Kong went there and prayed for rain, and the rain came. In gratitude, the people built a monastery for him on Peng-Lai Mountain. Chor Soo Kong called the monastery Cheng Swee Giam, which means, The Rock of Clear Water. From this name, when Chor Soo Kong was deified,
In 1850, a monk arrived from China, bringing with him the statue of Chor Soo Kong. The monk then built a temple dedicated to Chor Soo Kong in a clearing by the Sungai Keluang river in Bayan Lepas. At that time, the surrounding area is jungle, and there was plenty of snakes. Rather than harming the snakes, the pious monk provided shelter to them. When the temple was completed, the snakes were brought in.
The snakes were the poisonous Wagler's Pit Vipers, also called the Temple Pit Vipers, or in Malay, ular kapak tokong. Their range is from South Thailand to Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra, Sulawesi and the southern island of the Philippines archipelago. They can grow to 1 - 1.3 meters long (3-4 ft). When young, they are light green with narrow pale bands. On reaching adulthood, the snakes take on a darker green with thicker yellow bands. Although the poison is not very dangerous, the bite can be very painful and can cause much swelling. However the snakes are usually sluggish and seldom bite.
Continuous development of the surrounding areas in Bayan Lepas has today enveloped the Snake Temple, resulting in a loss of habitat for the snakes, and a general reduction in their numbers. The jungle behind the temple has long disappeared, and it is now part of the Bayan Lepas Industrial Zone housing various multinational corporations.
Getting there
The Snake Temple is located on a sliproad called Jalan Tokong Ular (it was created when the Bayan Lepas main road was straightened). The bus stop is on the main road in front of Osram. From the Weld Quay Bus Terminal, take Rapid Penang bus U401 that goes to Balik Pulau. Ask a local to help press the bell for you for Snake Temple.
What to see and do
This is not a place for the squirmish. If you expect to see snakes, you will see them. And not just snakes, but poisonous pit vipers. They are much fewer now, but still there they are, coiled on the twigs at the altars. Further down, there is a chamber with trees full of pit vipers. Photographers are on hand to take photos of you with the snakes - that is, with you holding the snakes - if you are game for it. There has not been reports of visitors being bitten, though it's something to approach at your own risk.
Snake Temple Photo Gallery
Front façade of the Snake Temple in Sungai Keluang, Bayan Lepas, Penang.
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