Wisma Kastam Malayan Railway Building, Gat Lebuh China
Wisma Kastam, originally known as the Malayan Railway Building, is one of the most prominent heritage buildings along the Weld Quay waterfront of George Town. It was built at the turn of the 20th century following land reclamation that extended the shoreline outward.
Before Wisma Kastam was built, the shoreline was somewhere between Beach Street and what is today Victoria Street, depending on the tide. There would be piers going out into the sea, and steps (called ghauts) extending down into the water. China Street makes a straight line from the Kuan Yin Teng Temple, allowing for an uninterrupted view of the sea from the temple. Where China Street meets the shore, a ghaut led downwards into the sea, allowing for goods to be easily unloaded from boats into bullock carts and brought inland. The layout of China Street was regarded as good feng shui by the Chinese community, and it certainly helped to propel their prosperity. The late 19th century land reclamation put an end to all that.
With the land reclamation, China Street was extended out. However, the extension, called China Street Ghaut (Gat Lebuh China) was not a straight line from China Street. It bends to the left where George Town Dispensary is located. This change in orientation of China Street means that the Kuan Yin Teng no longer enjoyed the seaview.
To add further insult to injury, the British authorities built the Malayan Railway Building. Although the rationale given was that Penang was experiencing an economic boom due largely to the growth of tin ore exports necessitating an administrative building for the newly laid railway, the decision to place the Malayan Railway Building in such a spot as to block any seaview from the temple is again taken by the superstitious Chinese community as a way by the British to halt their prosperity, via disrupting their feng shui. And as if to confirm the British intention, the Malayan Railway Building was topped with a clock tower, with the clock facing the Kuan Yin Temple. This, to the chagrin of the Chinese community, was a very inauspicious sign, like the white men telling them that "their time is up".
Getting there
Wisma Kastam is only about 700 feet from the Weld Quay Bus Terminal. To get there, cross Pengkalan Weld using the pedestrian bridge, and then turn right, walk along Pengkalan Weld until you arrive at the junction of Gat Lebuh China. Wisma Kastam is right in front of you.
What to see
Wisma Kastam serves as the offices of the Customs Department. It is not a tourist destination. Nevertheless, it is significant for its role in the development of the tin mining industry in Malaya. Completed in 1907, it was often called the "only railway station in the world without a railway". Passengers buying train tickets are ushered onto the railway ferry to cross the channel, where they board the train in Butterworth.
Finding Accommodation in Penang
If you're going to Penang, you now have the option of finding accommodation in a hotel, or look for one in hostels and guesthouses. To book a room in a star-rated hotel, use the Penang Hotel Guide for Budget Travelers. To find accommodation in a Hostel or Guesthouse, use the Penang Guide to Hostels and Guesthouses. Each link provides detailed listing of the type of accommodation you can expect in Penang. Be aware that you get what you pay for. If you need a certain degree of comfort, then a star-rated hotel may be an ideal option for you. On the other hand, if you are able to forego a bit of creature comfort, then hostels and guesthouses are clean, safe, and incredibly good value for money. For accommodation in other destinations, visit Hotel Guide for Budget Travelers or Hostels & Guesthouses Accommodation Guide.
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