Location of the Tanjong Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple
The Tanjung Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple is the "tokong" (Chinese temple) that gave its name to the cape on the northeast side of Penang Island. (Note: Tanjung Tokong is spelled Tanjung Tokong according to standard Malay spelling, but AsiaExplorers and Penang Travel Tips prefer to retain the spelling of place names in their original forms.)
The Tua Pek Kong Temple of Tanjong Tokong is the most important Tua Pek Kong temple in Penang and quite likely, throughout the region. The official name of this temple is Hai-Zhu Tua Pek Kong Temple. Hai-Zhu is the Hokkien name of Tanjong Tokong. This Tua Pek Kong temple is believed to be original Tua Pek Kong temple that eventually sprouts the worship of this deity throughout West Malaysia, Singapore and East Malaysia.
Tua Pek Kong himself is the deified form of a person by the name of Zhang Li (or Chang Lee), a mid-18th century scholar of Hakka (also called Khek by the Hokkiens) descent who left a troubled China along with two other companions (in some documents, they were described as his brothers) Qiu Zhao-Jin and Ma Fu-Chun. Enroute to Sumatra, their boat was blown to Penang instead, where they settled. They were buried in mounts which are located to the left of the temple. This happened in the mid-18th century, around 40 years before Francis Light established George Town.
Fifty years after the death of Zhang Li, local Chinese began to worship him as a god of prosperity, giving him the honorific title of Tua Pek Kong, meaning Great-Grand Uncle. The tombstones and temple dedicated to Tua Pek Kong was built in 1799, during the 4th year of the reign of Ruidi, the Jia-Qing Emperor (1796-1820) of the Qing Dynasty.
As the worship of Tua Pek Kong is directly related to the accummulation of wealth, management of Tua Pek Kong temples is often fought over between Chinese communities, especially the Hokkien and the Hakka. The Tanjong Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple was managed by the five branches of the Hakka association, namely the Hui Zhou, Jia Ying, Da Pu, Yong Ding and Zeng Long. To ensure a place of worship for their respective community in George Town, the Hokkiens, under the Hock Teik Cheng Sin society, built the Hokkien Tua Pek Kong Temple at its premises at Armenian Street. It is managed by the Poh Hock Seah, a society that came into being after the Khian Teik secret society was outlawed by the British authorities in 1890. The Hakka and their Cantonese brethren erected the Cantonese Tua Pek Kong Temple at King Street. Every year, the two communities held processions from their respective town temples to the Tanjong Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple.
The Tanjung Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple is noted for its annual flame watching ritual, called Chneah Hoay. This takes place on the 14th night of the Chinese New Year, which is the eve of Tua Pek Kong's Birthday. In this ceremony, embers in a ceremonial urn are fanned until the flames leaped up. The coming year's fortune is divined in the conflagration.
Facing the temple is an abandoned lookout with sitting area. These were sponsored by Aw Boon Haw of Tiger Balm fame. Nearby is an open-air restaurant famous for its seafood. The retaining wall along the coast was badly damaged in the 2004 tsunami, but has since been repaired. The rocks and seaside pavilions are a favourite spot for anglers.
Getting there
To reach the Tanjong Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple, take Rapid Penang bus U101, U103, U104 from Weld Quay. Get off the bus near the pedestrian bridge at Tanjong Tokong (ask a local for help). Cross the road and then go down a off-shoot road. You can see low-cost flats to your right. Walk along the road until you reach the temple which is located within its own compound by the seaside.
What to see and do there
The Tanjong Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple provides a glimpse into the Taoist-inspired beliefs of the local Chinese. The temple itself is not as spectacularly ornate as those within George Town, but its lengthy history makes it a very significant place for devotees. If you intend to witness festivity here, you must come on the 14th night of Chinese New Year, when the flame watching ritual is performed. At other times, the temple remains quiet. Admire the seaside view across the North Channel, and at the remains of the pavilion erected by Aw Boon Haw.
Tanjung Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple Photo Gallery
Front view of the Tanjung Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple
Side view of the Tanjung Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple.
Gateway to the Tua Pek Kong Temple.
Main chamber of the Tua Pek Kong temple.
Guardian lion outside the temple.
The graves of Zhang Li and his companions. Zhang Li is deified and worshipped as Tua Pek Kong through out the country. (14 September, 2008)
Pavilion erected by philantrophist Aw Boon Haw, now used by a seafood restaurant. (14 September, 2008)
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