The Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple, also known as Poh Hock Seah, is a place associated with Penang's warring clans of the 19th century. It is a clan temple of the Hokkien people who trace their origin to Southern Fujian Province in China. Although registered with the Chinese Protectorate of Penang on 11 October 1892, the Hock Teik Cheng Sin can trace its roots back to 1844, with the founding of the Kean Teik Tong Hokkien association. The Kean Teik Tong was one of the two parties that was involved in the Penang Riots of 1867, together with the Ghee Hin Secret Society, an open warfare along the streets of Penang that resulted in the banning of secret societies. During the riots, the Kean Teik Tong was allied with the Hai Sans, led by Kapitan China Chung Keng Kwee.
The Hock Teik Cheng Sin moved to its present site in 1850. It occupies a lot granted to its leader, Khoo Teeau Pang. The temple and its surrounding buildings are believed to have been constructed between 1850 and 1867. It is most popularly known as the Hokkien Tua Pek Kong Temple, after its patron deity, the Taoist god of prosperity.
Due to its past as the base of the Khian Teik Tong secret society, the Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple is registered under the names of the many other societies in place of the Khian Teik Tong. These include the Poh Hock Seah, the Hokkien Kongsi, Cheng Hoe Seah and Tong Kheng Seah. Each occupies a different section of the Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple.
The Poh Hock Seah takes up the whole ground floor of the Hock Teik Cheng Sin. It is a society formed in 1890, the year that the Kean Teik Tong was banned by the authorities and dissolved. Its aim is to look after the interest of the Hokkien people in Penang, filling the void left by the Kean Teik Tong. As its principal deity is the Tua Pek Kong, the Hock Teik Cheng Sin is often regarded as the Hokkien Tua Pek Kong Temple. The Tua Pek Kong is the Hokkien deity of blessings, prosperity and morality. As Tua Pek Kong is also the patron deity of merchants, the Poh Hock Seah derives much influence and prestige by being the site of its worship.
Chingay processions have their origin with the worship of the Tua Pek Kong. During Chingay processions, gaily decorated floats and giant flags are paraded along the streets of Penang originating from the Poh Hock Seah.
The Hokkien Kongsi occupies the upper left wing of the Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple. It is formed by the board of trustees of the Big Five Hokkien Clan Associations of Penang, namely the Seh Tek Tong Cheah Kongsi, the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, the Kew Leong Tong Lim Kongsi, the Eng Chuan Tong Tan Kongsi and the Sit Teik Tong Yeoh Kongsi. The Hokkien Kongsi manages five Hokkien temples in Penang, namely the Hock Hin Keong (Snake Temple) in Sungai Kluang, the Seng Ong Beow at Bridge Street (Jalan CY Choy), Cheng Leong Keong (Tai Tay Yeah Temple) in Jelutong, Chooi Bee Keong Temple in Bagan Jermal and the Siew Thean Keong Temple in Dato Kramat.
Cheng Hoe Seah is a Hokkien society occupying the upper right wing of the Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple. Its patron deity is the Cheng Chooi Chor Soo. The Cheng Hoe Seah was founded as early as the 1840's. Its founding leader was Tan Cheng, believed to be one of the directors of the Batu Lanchang Hokkien Cemetery management committee back in 1841. The Cheng Hoe Seah moved into the Hock Teik Cheng Sin in 1849.
The Tong Kheng Seah is a Hokkien society that worships Sin Long Siang Tay, the patron saint of farmers and peasants. The feast day of Sin Long Siang Tay falls on the 14th day of the 2nd lunar month.
These legitimately registered societies were created when the British authorities outlawed the Khian Teik secret society in 1890. It simply transferred its assets to these societies. The Poh Hock Seah inherits the religious functions of the Khian Teik in running the Hokkien Tua Pek Kong temples in Armenian Street as well as at the Tanjong Tokong Tua Pek Kong Temple, where the annual flame watching ritual called Chneah Hoay is conducted.
When restoration work was corried out at the Hock Teik Cheng Sin, triangular fighting flags were uncovered. These were probably in use during the 1867 Penang Riot, when the Hokkien Tua Pek Kong and the Red Flag Society fought against the Cantonese Ghee Hin and the White Flag Society. Warring factions were the state of affairs among the various Chinese clans in Penang during the late 19th Century. To provide for an easy escape, there is a secret passage at the side yard of the Hokkien Tua Pek Kong temple that leads to the grounds of its ally, the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi.
As this article is written, the Hock Teik Cheng Sin is still in the midst of a RM1.3 million restoration project which includes the temple gateway, the stage, 10 neighbouring shops and of course, the temple itself.
Stretching your budget in Penang
If you are a prudent traveller, you can spend less than $20 per day in Penang, including your accommodation! Here's some useful tips for budget travellers to Penang, to help you manage your budget and have a great time.
Penang Tour Guides
If you're on a shoestring budget, you can explore Penang using the travel articles in Penang Travel Tips. You may print them out for your own personal non-commercial use. However, nothing compares to having a professional tour guide to show you around. If you need a tour guide, contact me and I'll arrange one for you, according to your schedule and interest. If I happen to be free, I would gladly show you around too. Just write to me at:
Finding Budget Accommodation in Penang
If you're coming to Penang on a budget, you'd be pleased to know that there's quite a number of places in George Town as well as in Batu Ferringhi that offers good clean accommodation without costing you an arm and a let. If I am allowed to be biased, I would recommend Hotel Mingood, which happens to belong to a friend of mine. If it is occupied, there are plenty of other places that cost less than US$12.00 per night. Here are some suggestions:
Hotel Mingood, from US$10.00
Hutton Lodge, from US$8.25
Baba Guesthouse, from US$7.57
E.T. Budget Guesthouse, from US$6.05
YMCA Penang, from US$6.53
Ali's Ferringhi Guest House, from US$9.63
Despite the best intentions to provide you information that is as accurate as possible, do be aware that prices may have changed and exchange rates fluctuated since I wrote this. So please personally and carefully screen through the available accommodation before making your booking, to avoid any disappointments.
Facade of the upper floor of the Hock Teik Cheng Sin
Hock Teik Cheng Sin Roof Beams
Altar to Cheng Chooi Chor Soo, patron deity of the Cheng Hoe Seah
Secret passage in the Hock Teik Cheng Sin temple
that leads to Armenian Street
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The Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple
Altar to Sin Long Siang Tay, patron deity of the Tong Kheng Seah, in the central hall of the upper floor
Faded door god on the door of the Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple
Altar to the Tua Pek Kong, managed by the Poh Hock Seah
Processional banners and swords
All the beams and decorations look brand new after the restoration
Rosewood furniture in the temple
Gilded filigree at the door of the upper floor
The offerings table
Intricate artwork on the ceiling beams reflect the artistry of the Chinese craftsmen
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