Cheng Kon Sze
Cheng Kon Sze Temple, or better known as Cheng Ji Chan, is a sprawling Taoist temple complex anchored on the slopes of the central hills of Penang. Its official full name is Thien Hen San Chau Yuen Tong Cheng Kon Sze, meaning Cheng Kon Temple of Chau Yen Cave of Thien Hen Mountain. Thien Hen San could well mean Bukit Penara, the hill located between the temple and the Ayer Itam Dam.
The name Cheng Ji Chan is often translated in English as Temple of A Thousand Two Hundred Steps. Actually, it means the Temple of A Thousand and Two Steps, but somehow somewhere, the meaning of "two" was mistaken for "two hundred". An even more seismic shift in meaning comes among some punters who thought Cheng Ji Chan actually means Temple of Four Digit Numbers.
The name Cheng Ji Chan refers to the over one thousand pieces of granite steps that were laid by devotees. Many of the original granite steps still remain, but some have been replaced by cement steps, purported taken by the Japanese during the Second World War.
The temple occupies a natural basin a short distance below the Ayer Itam Dam. Also written as Cheng Jee Chan or Cheng Kuan Soo, this temple derived its name from the over a thousand granite steps laid by early devotees to reach it.
Cheng Kon Sze Temple was built in 1880. Over the centuries, it has undergone repeated restoration and renovation. According to the entrance arch, it was rebuilt on 15 September 1985. The most recent round of makeover to the whole complex appears to have been carried out quite recently, probably in 2007, At the time of my visit in 2008, the temple looked like it has received a new coat of paint not too long ago.
Cheng Kon Sze comprises an entrance archway, three temple halls and an ancestral hall. To the right of the temple are a few private homes belonging to the temple caretaker. A short distance below the temple is a pond in the shape of a crescent moon. The temple grounds is well maintained, and landscaped with torch ginger and a profusion of flowering plants. Here and there are Australian custard apple trees (a variety of the local nona) and papaya trees.
The entrance arch into Cheng Kon Sze Temple carries the name Chau Yuen Tong. I am not sure why it is given the name "Tong", which means cave, just like Sam Poh Tong or Perak Tong. I suppose the temple really was built over a cave which I did not see. The Chau Yuen Tong archway is located about one hundred meters to the east of the temple halls, and positioned in such a way that it aligns with the three halls. All three halls face east, though not perfectly aligned to the east cardinal point, but a small degree north (see accompanyng map).
A winding path leads from Chau Yuen Tong to the temple. From the doorway, you can view the three temple halls together, almost one above the other. They are painted bright yellow, as is the Chau Yuen Tong archway, an indication that they are dedicated to the Taoist female deity, Doumu (also written Tow Boo and Toe Boe) and her nine offsprings, the Nine Emperor Gods. These are the same deities as in the Butterworth Tow Boo Kong Temple and the Penang Toe Boe Keong Kew Ong Tai Tay Temple.
The lowest temple hall is called Chau Yuen Miau. It is a rectangular structure. The front entrance of Chau Yuen Miau has a portico with two pillars, and lanterns hanging from the ceiling. On both sides are windows topped with decorative arches. On the side of Chau Yuen Miau are paintings of legends, animals and landscapes. On a header plaque is the name of the temple.
A flight of steps take us to the middle hall, called Yuen Ming Kong. This is the hall of the deity Doumu. The hall is unique among the structures in the complex as it is octagonal, like a pagoda. The same arch motif that appear on the Chau Yuen Miau is repeated here over its doors and windows.
Another flight of steps take us to the main hall of the temple, Cheng Kon Sze. It has a much bigger porch than the two earlier halls. At the porch is a statue of a priest depicted riding a tiger. From Cheng Kon Sze, you get a panoramic view of Paya Terubong and Farlim. High rise apartments dot the landscape hemmed in by the hills.
To the left of Cheng Kon Sze is an ancestral hall. Inside this hall are ancestral tablets. On the walls are photographs taken a few decades ago. Some show celebrations at Cheng Kon Sze in the 1940's.
Roadsign pointing the way to Cheng Kon Sze.
Getting there
Cheng Kon Sze can be approached by climbing the steps from the United Hokkien Cemetery in Paya Terubong, or by car using the road from Kek Lok Si Temple. The distance is 1.4km (4580 ft). Climbing the steps will take you about one hour, probably more if you stop often. You can reach the temple by car in approximately 15 minutes, going through the bumpy hill road. Take the road that leads to Ayer Itam Dam. Turn in at the archway to the Kek Lok Si Goddess of Mercy Statue. Drive through Kek Lok Si, the Goddess of Mercy Statue (at time of writing, a pavilion is under construction to shelter it), past the Kek Lok Si Columbarium, and watch out for the sign pointing to Cheng Kon Sze. Follow the small, yellow sign through the hill road, and it will lead you to the temple. The one-way distance is 3.7 km (2.3 miles).
Stretching your budget in Penang
If you are a prudent traveller, you can spend less than $20 per day in Penang, including your accommodation! Here's some useful tips for budget travellers to Penang, to help you manage your budget and have a great time.
Penang Tour Guides
If you're on a shoestring budget, you can explore Penang using the travel articles in Penang Travel Tips. You may print them out for your own personal non-commercial use. However, nothing compares to having a professional tour guide to show you around. If you need a tour guide, contact me and I'll arrange one for you, according to your schedule and interest. If I happen to be free, I would gladly show you around too. Just write to me at:
Finding Budget Accommodation in Penang
If you're coming to Penang on a budget, you'd be pleased to know that there's quite a number of places in George Town as well as in Batu Ferringhi that offers good clean accommodation without costing you an arm and a let. If I am allowed to be biased, I would recommend Hotel Mingood, which happens to belong to a friend of mine. If it is occupied, there are plenty of other places that cost less than US$12.00 per night. Here are some suggestions:
Hutton Lodge, from US$8.25
Baba Guesthouse, from US$7.57
E.T. Budget Guesthouse, from US$6.05
YMCA Penang, from US$6.53
Ali's Ferringhi Guest House, from US$9.63
Despite the best intentions to provide you information that is as accurate as possible, do be aware that prices may have changed and exchange rates fluctuated since I wrote this. So please personally and carefully screen through the available accommodation before making your booking, to avoid any disappointments.
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Pathway to Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Cheng Kon Sze Location Map
Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Chau Yuen Tong, entrance archway to Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
View of Cheng Kon Sze from Chau Yuen Tong (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Path to Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
View of Chau Yuen Tong from path (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
The three halls of Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Chau Yuen Miau, Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Paintings at Chau Yuen Miau (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Yuen Ming Kong octagonal hall, Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
View of Cheng Kon Sze main hall from Yuen Ming Kong (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Porch of Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
One of the shrines within Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
View from Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Cheng Kon Sze Ancestral Hall (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Inside Cheng Kon Sze Ancestral Hall (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Australian custard apple at Cheng Kon Sze Temple (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
Australian custard apple at Cheng Kon Sze Temple (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
View of Farlim from Cheng Kon Sze (11 October 2008)
© Timothy Tye
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